Bếp Nhỏ

A turmeric crepe, crisped in a cast-iron pan to order, folded over gulf shrimp and bean sprouts. You eat it wrapped in mustard greens with your hands. We will show you.

The herb plate. Perilla, rice paddy herb, Vietnamese coriander, saw-tooth. Grown four blocks from here by a neighbour who will not sell to anyone else.

Beef shank and pork knuckle, lemongrass, fermented shrimp paste, and enough chilli oil to matter. The broth takes twelve hours and we make one pot a day. When it is gone we close, even at 7 PM.

Three colours — mung bean, red bean, pandan jelly — under crushed ice and coconut cream. Served in a glass, eaten with a spoon, not a straw.

Robusta through a phin filter over condensed milk. It takes four minutes to drip and we are not going to rush it.